London Fashion Week SS19
London Fashion Week is used to the emerging designers, the small shows in oddly lit venues. But no one shone as bright as Riccardo Tisci’s talent at his first show for Burberry. The show was definitely a very big fashion moment for London and was my favourite show.
The first look was Burberry’s signature trench coat. It was now a more slimmer silhouette with a wide belt around the waist. Followed by pencil skirts, pussybow blouses, shirts, trouser suits, lace camis and pleated skirts, with some in leopard print and the new Thomas Burberry logo printed on them. Photography prints of old Victorians, Shakespeare and the ‘Why did they kill Bambi?’ slogan were also used in looser silhouetted deconstructed clothes. The show finished with sleek black maxi dresses, cementing Tisci’s mark at the historic house.
The show was inspired by Fanny and Stella, who were noted cross-dressers of the 1870s. With that Victorian feel we saw, high waisted tuxedo trousers were worn with a floral cropped jacket. Overblown florals on cavernous Pierrot-esque smocks with enormous bows on the shoulder. Black polka dotted tulle gowns paired with bee-keeper hats. The colours were strong – emerald greens, blue and rich pinks, and the prints very bold.
Full tulle skirts came down the runway along with corset-style pieces, and fluttery white dresses. Fabrics use were glossy silks, white cotton and jewel-toned lace. We saw a bit of edge added to the collection with very graphic slogan pieces. Also shown where loose shirts, oversized jumpers and a pair of jeans.
Victoria proved she has staying power with her 10th year show. We saw belted loose-fit trousers and silver boots, and a blazer over a lace-trimmed camisole. Also on show were long asymmetric skirts, a bright orange belted tunic and skinny trousers with split hem in various colours.
Also in her 10th anniversary show Mary Katrantzou’s collection used postcard stamps, butterflies, perfume bottles, jewellery, flowers and many other of her trademarks. Transforming them into meticulous embroideries and embellishments covering long-sleeved mini-dresses, tulle ball-gowns, romantic capes and elegant flares.
Another designer in his 10th year was J.W.Anderson. Each of the models wore leather headscarves and pushed the modern, bohemian feel of the collection. The palette was in lemon yellows, pinks, earthy blues and plenty of white. There was a lot of layering, intricate knits, puffy sleeves, bold patterns and a wide selection of colours throughout the collection.
Inspiration for the show came from her heritage, she explored her Chinese side as well as ancient dynasties. There was a beautiful selection of floral embroidery and patterns. silhouettes were big with stand-out veils and bright head-pieces.
All videos courtesy of ©FF Channel via YouTube.
Please find more videos from London Fashion Week SS19, in the Video Menu section of my blog.
The Fashion Visitor