Tailoring was key at Armani’s show from blazers and workwear suits to shawl collar eveningwear in velvet, there were a total of 93 different looks in the whole collection. Bomber jackets and cuffed trousers, gave a more relaxed style, some of which were in velvet and faux fur coats.
Four designers, including architect Rem Koolhaas, were invited to come up with a look using the black nylon fabric used for backpacks, that made the brand famous in the 1990s. Prada prints were shown in ‘cut and sew’ shirts that combined the lipstick design of 2000 with 2016’s Impossible True Love. Models also came down the runway with work uniform styled clothing with ID badges.
The inspiration behind the collection came from Versace Casa, the homewares section of the label. Hoodies and coats were trimmed in the short fringe normally found on cushions and velvet drapes, and were reimagined into a tracksuit and quilted jacket. As well as a liberal spread of leopard print. Wrapped around model’s wrists were jewellery made from repurposed cutlery. Bright tartans were used for suits and styled with football scarves and trainers.
Francesco Risso’s collection for Marni was themed childlike pleasures, which included a checked coat, black and blue patterned trousers and a trailing scarf. There was also a roomy pink coat was paired with checked wool trousers decorated with squirrels.
The collection for No21 focused on blazers, quilted sports jackets, leather coats and classic overcoats. The brown trend came in the form of tobacco coloured trousers. Also included were plaid shirts and sherpa jackets and a retro motel sign print on a jumper and crushed silk shirt.
Crisscross prints in the collection, meant to mimic nature’s patterns in snow, were on suits dominated with a new ‘One 1/2 breasted’ jacket style. Which were half way between single and double breasted jacket. These were pairs with mountain boots to completed the look.
The runway at Fendi was turned into an ‘airport arrivals hall’ with luggage snaking its way round the baggage carousel, models wore umbrella hats and rain macs. The brand was founded as a house of baggage, trunks and umbrellas back in 1925. The collection was a return to those origins, but also a deep step into the world of streetwear.
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