Paris F/W Fall Winter 2018-2019

Featured photo above by Kris Atomic on Unsplash

Chloe

Strong silhouettes and lots of dresses, came down the Chloe runway this season. There were drop-waist dresses, with knife-pleats and others with embroidery,  open V-neck shirt dresses worn with a pendant necklace. There was also, chunky knit worn with a pleated lace insert skirt, a trench coat, and jodhpur jogger trousers and blazer.

Balenciaga

The show featured a mixture of women’s and men’s wear on the runway together for the first time. There where extreme bulky layered silhouettes in the finale, inspired by 90s snowboarders layered outfits. Balenciaga have a World Food Programme initiative at the moment, from August 2018 for six months, they will donate 10% of each WFO branded product.

Miu Miu

Opening the show was American actress Elle Fanning, she wore a neck scarf and camel donkey jacket with beehive hair. There where also bomber jackets in leather, patent and one in stone-wash denim.

Saint Laurent

There were leather and velvet shorts, and mini dresses. Along with tailored jackets, cropped jeans and embroidered blouses and even a full menswear collection. The finale featured a collection of colourful sparkling evening dresses.

Givenchy

The show was a predominately monochrome palette with accents of green and metallic in some of the dresses. Givenchy are now fur free with four realistic retro looking faux fur coats opening the show. English Heritage fabrics also featured with tailored dogstooth coats.

Isabel Marant

We saw wool blanket-style coats and reversed sheepskin, a white lace blouse worn with wide-cuffed jeans and a western shirts tucked into ruched mini skirts, chunky knits with colourful quilting patterns, and short floral prairie dresses worn with thigh-high cowboy boots.

Dries Van Noten

The show opened with a collection of coats and parkas with soft silhouettes, rounded shoulders and oversized. Some were prints drawn free hand and others had glistening embroidery. Sportswear was mixed with classic tailoring and dresses. Skirts and dresses also had feathers and were worn with voluminous blouses.

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Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion Exhibition

The first UK exhibition to explore the work and legacy of the Spanish couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga. The Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion exhibition showcases over 100 garments and hats crafted by Balenciaga, his protégés and contemporary designers working in the same innovative way today.

Green Dress
Evening Dress and Cape – Silk gazar. Cristóbal Balenciaga, 1961

Split into two sections the exhibition looks at the later stage of Balenciaga’s career, focusing on Balenciaga’s work during the 1950s and 60s,  the second section examines his undoubtable influence on contemporary designers. There are Sketches, patterns, fabric samples, photographs and catwalk footage revealing Balenciaga’s uncompromising and relentless creativity. There are a number of Balenciaga’s timeless shapes on display, including the tunic, the sack, “baby doll” and shift dress.

Black Babydoll Dress
Cocktail ‘Baby doll’ dress – Crêpe de chine. Cristóbal Balenciaga, 1958

Through a series of X-rays, created by artist Nick Veasey, the V&A shows us the intricate nature of the hidden construction of a Balenciaga garment.

X-Ray & Dress
Evening Dress – Silk gazar (X-Ray in background) Cristóbal Balenciaga, 1965

Other show highlights include creations by Balenciaga for Hollywood actress Ava Gardner, dresses and shoes by wealthy businessman’s wife Elizabeth Parke Firestone, dresses and hats from socialite and 60s fashion icon Gloria Guinness, and pieces worn by Mona von Bismarck, one of the world’s wealthiest women,  she commissioned everything from ball-gowns to gardening shorts.

Feathered Sleeved White Overcoat
Evening Coat – Net and ostrich feathers, lined with silk organza (Owned by Ava Gardner). Cristóbal Balenciaga, 1964

Those who trained with Balenciaga have garments also on display in the exhibition, pieces by Paco Rabanne, André Courrèges and Emanuel Ungaro are included.

Paco Rabanne Dress
Evening mini-dress – Plastic paillettes and metal wire. Paco Rabanne, 1967

Initiated in the 1970s by the photographer Cecil Beaton, Balenciaga’s longstanding friend the V&A has the largest collection of Balenciaga in the UK. The exhibition marks the centenary of the opening of Balenciaga’s first fashion house in San Sebastian, Spain, and the 80th anniversary of the opening of his famous fashion house in Paris.

Red Dress
Evening dress – Silk taffeta. Cristóbal Balenciaga, 1954

The exhibition is truly a sheer delight for fashion enthusiasts, especially for reminding us of the originality of the designs at the height of Balenciaga’s career. A very enjoyable glimpse at his work and enduring legacy. 

 

On now until Sunday, 18 February 2018

 

Admission

Daily: 10.00 – 17.30

Last entry 16.15

Friday: 10.00 – 21.30

Last entry 20.15

 

Room 40

 

Tickets cost £12.00

Concessions apply.
Advance booking is recommended.

Exhibitions are free for Members

Members do not need to book.

 

https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/balenciaga-shaping-fashion