Women’s London Fashion Week – SS19

London Fashion Week SS19

London Fashion Week is used to the emerging designers, the small shows in oddly lit venues. But no one shone as bright as Riccardo Tisci’s talent at his first show for Burberry. The show was definitely a very big fashion moment for London and was my favourite show.

Burberry

The first look was Burberry’s signature trench coat. It was now a more slimmer silhouette with a wide belt around the waist. Followed by pencil skirts, pussybow blouses, shirts, trouser suits, lace camis and pleated skirts, with some in leopard print and the new Thomas Burberry logo printed on them. Photography prints of old Victorians, Shakespeare and the ‘Why did they kill Bambi?’ slogan were also used in looser silhouetted deconstructed clothes. The show finished with sleek black maxi dresses, cementing Tisci’s mark at the historic house.

Erdem

The show was inspired by Fanny and Stella, who were noted cross-dressers of the 1870s. With that Victorian feel we saw, high waisted tuxedo trousers were worn with a floral cropped jacket. Overblown florals on cavernous Pierrot-esque smocks with enormous bows on the shoulder. Black polka dotted tulle gowns paired with bee-keeper hats. The colours were strong – emerald greens, blue and rich pinks, and the prints very bold.

Christopher Kane

Full tulle skirts came down the runway along with corset-style pieces, and fluttery white dresses. Fabrics use were glossy silks, white cotton and jewel-toned lace. We saw a bit of edge added to the collection with very graphic slogan pieces. Also shown where loose shirts, oversized jumpers and a pair of jeans.

Victoria Beckham

Victoria proved she has staying power with her 10th year show. We saw belted loose-fit trousers and silver boots, and a blazer over a lace-trimmed camisole. Also on show were long asymmetric skirts, a bright orange belted tunic and skinny trousers with split hem in various colours.

Mary Katrantzou

Also in her 10th anniversary show Mary Katrantzou’s collection used postcard stamps, butterflies, perfume bottles, jewellery, flowers and many other of her trademarks. Transforming them into meticulous embroideries and embellishments covering long-sleeved mini-dresses, tulle ball-gowns, romantic capes and elegant flares.

J.W.Anderson

Another designer in his 10th year was J.W.Anderson. Each of the models wore leather headscarves and pushed the modern, bohemian feel of the collection. The palette was in lemon yellows, pinks, earthy blues and plenty of white. There was a lot of layering, intricate knits, puffy sleeves, bold patterns and a wide selection of colours throughout the collection.

Simone Rocha

Inspiration for the show came from her heritage, she explored her Chinese side as well as ancient dynasties. There was a beautiful selection of floral embroidery and patterns. silhouettes were big with stand-out veils and bright head-pieces.

All videos courtesy of ©FF Channel via YouTube.

Please find more videos from London Fashion Week SS19, in the Video Menu section of my blog.

Thanks

The Fashion Visitor

Haute Couture – Paris – Fall Winter 2018/19

Givenchy

The haute couture show paid homage to Mr Hubert of Givenchy, capturing his minimalist, graphic cuts and timeless elegance. There were pleated dresses, some cinched in at the waist with metal accessories or a metal belt, also shown were pleated dresses and some capes. Standout pieces were an entirely sequined dress, a black velvet dress, an open tail coat over trousers and a satin blouse. An emotional show with the inclusion of the voice of Givenchy’s muse Audrey Hepburn singing “Moon River”.

Christian Dior

Modern elegance and a sleek silhouette, there were dresses with winged sleeves, ribbed shoulders and distinct waists. The bustier dress with organza flowers and the tulle gowns were well fitted to the body. Also of note, were voluminous coats with bat sleeves and the pleat work on the back of the vests and sleeves.

Schiaparelli

There was an animal theme for this collection. Zebra, leopard and spotted prints re- interpreted in a modern way. There were fun hats and masks by Stephen Jones, in the form of a pink flamingo and a rabbit. Outfits of note, the appearance of Schiaparelli’s face on tunic dresses, a black velvet perforated dress and an asymmetrical sheath with a falling panel.

Maison Margiela

Outfits were voluminous and layered. The colour palette was a mix of electric pastel tones in lavender, tangerine, pistachio, mint, coral red, contrasted with black, white, gray, beige, military green and felt.  Some of the materials used were industrial padding, tapestry, felt, tights’ nylon, tweed, satin and tulle.

Sonia Rykiel

It was Sonia Rykiel’s 50th year since the launch of her label, and this was the first couture collection. Models came out strong, shirtless and braless under tuxedo jackets. Signature velour joggings were reimagined in embroidered tulle and paired up with a feathery jumper.

Chanel

There were 67 looks presented, tweed came out in soft steely colours. The classic Chanel jackets were elongated with sleeve that had elbow-length slits and ankle length skirts. Looks were also uplifted with fingerless gloves. Evening and cocktail dresses had embellished hems made from beads feathers, jewels and metallic glint.

Fendi

The shapes consisted of loose dresses, pencil skirt with small boxy jackets,  lightweight and flimsy evening gowns came with layers of tulle and fringed organza. vibrant colours with alternate hues of apricot, beige, pink, lavender and touches of black.

Giorgio Armani Privé

The collection was very elegant and consisted of 95 looks. There were fitted suits, sheath dresses, fantastically luxurious materials, shiny embroideries and feathers. The standout was the lamé suit trousers, pleated lace skirts and diamond prints.

Viktor & Rolf

25 creations were presented to celebrate their 25 years of design. All in white tones and Swarovski crystal enhanced. There were blouses with multiple bows with a Pierrot collar forming a flower with many petals and the “duvet” dress. Standout were crystals that formed words.

All video courtesy of FF Channel via YouTube

More shows can be found in the video menu section of my blog.

Thanks,

The Fashion Visitor

 

Paris F/W Fall Winter 2018-2019

Featured photo above by Kris Atomic on Unsplash

Chloe

Strong silhouettes and lots of dresses, came down the Chloe runway this season. There were drop-waist dresses, with knife-pleats and others with embroidery,  open V-neck shirt dresses worn with a pendant necklace. There was also, chunky knit worn with a pleated lace insert skirt, a trench coat, and jodhpur jogger trousers and blazer.

Balenciaga

The show featured a mixture of women’s and men’s wear on the runway together for the first time. There where extreme bulky layered silhouettes in the finale, inspired by 90s snowboarders layered outfits. Balenciaga have a World Food Programme initiative at the moment, from August 2018 for six months, they will donate 10% of each WFO branded product.

Miu Miu

Opening the show was American actress Elle Fanning, she wore a neck scarf and camel donkey jacket with beehive hair. There where also bomber jackets in leather, patent and one in stone-wash denim.

Saint Laurent

There were leather and velvet shorts, and mini dresses. Along with tailored jackets, cropped jeans and embroidered blouses and even a full menswear collection. The finale featured a collection of colourful sparkling evening dresses.

Givenchy

The show was a predominately monochrome palette with accents of green and metallic in some of the dresses. Givenchy are now fur free with four realistic retro looking faux fur coats opening the show. English Heritage fabrics also featured with tailored dogstooth coats.

Isabel Marant

We saw wool blanket-style coats and reversed sheepskin, a white lace blouse worn with wide-cuffed jeans and a western shirts tucked into ruched mini skirts, chunky knits with colourful quilting patterns, and short floral prairie dresses worn with thigh-high cowboy boots.

Dries Van Noten

The show opened with a collection of coats and parkas with soft silhouettes, rounded shoulders and oversized. Some were prints drawn free hand and others had glistening embroidery. Sportswear was mixed with classic tailoring and dresses. Skirts and dresses also had feathers and were worn with voluminous blouses.

All videos courtesy of © FF Channel via YouTube.

To see more videos please check out the video menu section of my blog.

London F/W Fall Winter 2018/2019

Featured photo above by Kris Atomic on Unsplash

Burberry

This was the last Christopher Bailey collection for the brand, which was dedicated to and in support of the LGBTQ+ community. There were over 150 looks, featuring embellished floor-length coats to tartan kilts.

With references to the 80s and 90s, there were shellsuit inspired sporty jackets along with chunky hoodies ad classic Burberry check baseball caps. The collection can now be pre-ordered, alongside a selection of ’80s and ’90s reissues.

Fyodor Golan

Sports trousers featured throughout the show, with wide-legged trouser styles the main focus. The brands classic athletic style featured contrasting bright stripes cut across sweat shirts and track tops. Main highlights, a tracksuit with a line of embroidered crystals along the sleeve and billowing capes.

Delpozo

There were strapless gowns in pink and blue and rainbow sequins, sewn on in circles. A lot of the collection also featured bows and abstract flowers, making for a very feminine collection.

Temperley London

The show featured aviator jackets and patch-embellished cropped jackets worn over silk and chiffon gowns. Qlive green knitted jumpsuits and matching peplum jackets. Shimmery ombre sequinned dresses with gold-clasped safety buckle belts and lace-up shin-length black flight boots. Cloudscapes were printed on billowing silk suits and dresses. The show closed with an ombre gold-to-olive green gown and a cropped gold quilted jacket.

Best of the designers who have their collection available now are:

Christopher Kane


http://www.christopherkane.com

ERDEM


http://www.erdem.com

Simone Rocha

http://www.simonerocha.com

 

Molly Goddardhttp://www.doverstreetmarket.com

Ashishhttp://www.ashish.co.uk

Mother of Pearlhttp://www.motherofpearl.co.uk

Marques Almeidahttp://www.marquesalmeida.com

Preen by Thornton and Bregazzihttp://www.preenbythorntonbregazzi.com

Roksandahttp://www.roksanda.com

All videos courtesy of © FF Channel via YouTube.

 

Please check out the video menu section of my blog to see more videos.

 

Emerging Designer: Molly Goddard

Molly Goddard specialises in traditional hand-craft techniques such as hand pleating, smocking and crocheting. Goddard started her label in 2014 and has earned many accolades, including from Rihanna who counts her as one of her favourite designers. After her first show she was swiftly taken up by Dover Street Market and was a finalist in this year’s LVMH’s young fashion designer prize. She also won the British Emerging Talent award at the 2016 Fashion Awards.

Her work has been described as “dishevelled bohemian crossed with punk princess”. She personally say’s of her work “There’s a clumsiness … a slight awkwardness to [my designs] in that they’re a bit wonky and imperfect.”

Her clothes also are also stocked at Trading Museum Comme des Garcons, I.T, Browns, Boon the Shop and Club 21.

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Video curtesy of © FF Channel via YouTube.