Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2018

Featured photo above by Arthur Humeau on Unsplash

 

Maison Margiela

The collected fashion press were encouraged to use flash photography, for the first half of the Maison Margiela show. The dresses, coats and bustiers on the catwalk then transformed from plain black into brilliant technicolour. Galliano also used fabrics not commonly associated with couture. This resulted in sportswear playing a key role, with ski jackets being repurposed into black-tie gowns and bungee cords used as a neck tie to fasten raw silk dresses.

Chanel

Lily-Rose Depp opened the Chanel show in a multi-layered pink dress. The whole collection was magnificent with pastel colours, feathers and just the right amount of sparkle.

Christian Dior

A total of 72 looks came down the runway, mainly in black-and-white. The emphasis was on craftsmanship rather than colour. Highlights were the jacquard evening dress in with gold embroidery, the ivory stain coat with domino design, the black triple organza long dress featuring hand-painted zodiac motifs and the closing look of full-length black cape worn over a black tuxedo paired with a black tulle shirt and tie.

Valentino

So many fantastic looks at Valentino show, from feathered coats, floor sweeping capes, embellished corset dresses, some paired with wonderful colour combinations.

Elie Saab

The show had a modern-day, 1920s Art Deco influence to it. There were bold geometric prints, which were amplified with heavily encrusted embellishment and lavish adornments. Fabrics used were silk, satin, tulle, and lace in pastel shades. The silhouette was further enhanced by feathers, shoulders were accentuated and necklines plunged.

Ralph & Russo

A very beautiful and cutting-edge collection came down the runway. From capes, velvet thigh-high slit, sequined dresses. The colours palette included scarlet red, mustard yellow and pink.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Gaultier took us back the 60s era in a Pierre Cardin inspired show. There were bold black and white looks with graphic avant-garde designs. On show were circular black and a white striped dress in silk crepe and a bi-coloured gown bubble dress in crepe that was cut into strips on the skirt. In all, 51 individual looks in the collection came down the runway.

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Paris F/W Men’s Autumn/Winter 2018-19

Hermes

Models came out and walked through the courtyard of a former monastery, flanked by burning beacons. Stand out fabrics were knitwear and lightweight quilted outerwear.  The styling was subtle, made up of layers letting dashes of bright colour stand out against an earthy toned collection palette.

Lemaire

The collection was elegant and restrained and opened with a brown pilled wool belted coat, over white trousers and brown leather boots. Colours came in bubblegum pink turtlenecks and a red jumper, which stood out against the browns and caramels.

Lanvin

Strong tailoring was present at the Lanvin show this season in the form suits and reworked anoraks. Lucas Ossendrivjer made the point that the suit is modern camouflage, worn to blend in. Performance parkas appeared in traditional tailoring fabrics. Ossendrivjer also paired the suits with forest prints, made from his own photographs.

Dries Van Noton

The show was inspired by the marbled endpapers in old books. The nylon patterned windcheaters that made up the final line-up was visually stunning. The trousers worn were tartan and check and made central with several suits, as well as English embroidery at the base of trousers.

Rick Owens

The collection featured long tunics in double thread wool and cashmere, which were distorted or reattached with chains worn on loose denim Bermuda short. Of note, were the coats and capes with metallic studs on the collar, also with great effects in different materials on the back + The trainers and new to Owens collection, big soled boots in plastic.

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Emerging Designer: Molly Goddard

Molly Goddard specialises in traditional hand-craft techniques such as hand pleating, smocking and crocheting. Goddard started her label in 2014 and has earned many accolades, including from Rihanna who counts her as one of her favourite designers. After her first show she was swiftly taken up by Dover Street Market and was a finalist in this year’s LVMH’s young fashion designer prize. She also won the British Emerging Talent award at the 2016 Fashion Awards.

Her work has been described as “dishevelled bohemian crossed with punk princess”. She personally say’s of her work “There’s a clumsiness … a slight awkwardness to [my designs] in that they’re a bit wonky and imperfect.”

Her clothes also are also stocked at Trading Museum Comme des Garcons, I.T, Browns, Boon the Shop and Club 21.

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Emerging Designer: Asai

Asai, whose real name is A Sai Ta, graduated from Central Saint Martins with a BA and MA in fashion. He was also awarded the L’Oréal creative prize at the end of his BA course. His designs sold out in a week, when Selfridges opened the Fashion East pop-up shop last year. Ironically he was also working as a Selfridges staff member at the time.

He has worked with Kanye West on his Yeezy brand, this came about when Kanye came to the college to interview prospective designers for his brand. So impressed by Ta’s textile experiments he invited him to spend three months in LA.

London Fashion Week has said of his designs – “A summation of A Sai’s designs can be described as going against the grain – taking the familiar and reconceptualising it. A mash up of naughties and sportswear influence, fabrics in vibrant hues are so zealously distressed he has coined this unique technique as ‘interlocking embroidery”.

Ta’s designs are quirky, subvert notions of luxury fashion and turn perfectionism on it head.

http://www.asaita.co.uk/

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New York Fashion Week Spring 2018 Highlights

Featured photo above by Kris Atomic on Unsplash

 

Victoria Beckham

All the pieces of Victoria’s collection were highly desirable and wearable. Victoria said backstage “This collection shows the many powers of femininity, how delicacy can be strong.” The palette of colours were dusty rose, lilac and powder blue and vibrant red. Check shirts were worn with light pencil skirts. Oversize shirts were teamed up with wide-legged pants and boxy blazer and slim pants. The new glitter Harper slippers were a highly desirable item.

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