New York F/W Fall Winter 2018/2019

Featured photo above by Kris Atomic on Unsplash

 

Alexandra Wang

This was Alexandra Wang’s last show on the New York Fashion Week calendar. The show took place at the old Conde Nast offices in Times Square, the place where he showed his first collection.

The collection featured tailored 80s style suiting, leather bodycon and trench coats. This minimalist monochrome look, with injections of hot pink, was worn with sheer hosiery and stiletto shoes. There was also a Matrix edge with small sunglasses worn with Wang’s sportswear.

Calvin Klein

The collection represented the state of America and models came down the runway walking on popcorn. America was described on 50 keywords which included the phrases “firefighter,” “freedom”, “civil” and “war.

The collection included prairie-style dress, western shirts, knitwear with motifs of iconic cartoon characters Road Runner and Wile E. Coyote. Lumberjack checks fabric was use for slip dresses and floor-length gowns had American quilts sewn onto them.

Bottega Veneta

Tomas Maier’s collection featured multicolored wool dresses, which were embroided and cut away revealing two layers underneath, chain embroidery with a check print and silk jewel-toned pyjamas.

Victoria Beckham

This was Victoria Beckham’s last collection at New York Fashion Week, she will be swapping New York for London with her next collection.

There were very simple silk dresses that were asymmetrically pleated. Other pieces shown were more complex with multiple layers and textures, with waists drawn in and exaggerated shoulders. The leopard-print coat was one of the standout pieces.

Anna Sui

Using herself as the muse, Anna has taken bits and pieces from almost every collection she has showed and juxtaposed them together. The show featured embroidery, beading, knits, custom jewels and sunglasses.

Brandon Maxwell

The standout looks were slim jumpsuits in black or neon yellow, a red cardigan with a white blouse and a red beaded skirt, and a draped white top with black trousers. Also, knitwear and a belted blazer, both worn with denim jeans.

3.1 Phillip Lim

Featured were black-based floral dress over trousers and striped, knits, following by softly draped pastels, peasant dresses and relaxed suiting. The show was a mix of patterns, fabrics, and multilayers.

 

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THE WORLD OF ANNA SUI EXHIBITION 2017

Anna Sui Picture

I became aware or the fashion designer Anna Sui back in 2004, when I worked for a fragrance company. Since then I have been a big fan of her work, and to see an exhibition by her was an absolute delight. On at the Fashion and Textile Museum in Bermondsey, London. Her collection of clothes grabs you from the moment you walk in, with four separate outfits on display in the reception area. Which were all wonderfully detailed in their construction.

Anna Sui Victorian

Anna’s story begins in Detroit, she decided she wanted to become a fashion designer at the age of four. Growing up she would watch her mother for hours sewing, and would collect the fabric scraps to clothe her Barbie dolls and her brothers’ army action figures. Through this process, Sui learned the basics of making clothing and would soon put together her own outfits. She would read articles from Life Magazine, particularly about Mia Fonssagrives-Solow who graduated from Parsons The New School for Design in New York City and then moved to Paris. Anna credits this article as being the pivotal moment in her youth, which gave her clear direction on her future goals. She eventually  moved to New York and attended Parsons. She has redefined American fashion since her first runway show in 1991 and her pivotal grunge collection in 1993. Now she has more than 300 Anna Sui stores in 35 countries.

Anna Sui Grunge

She has an encyclopaedic knowledge of fashion history and this exhibition shows her dedication to the creative process. Some of her inspirations for her work are on display from magazines, rock-n-roll posters and clothing eras that have influenced her.

Anna Sui Purple Dress

In the main space all the mannequins are elevated on red podiums. The clothing’s strong  themes (‘archetypes’), are grouped in to nine themes, which have been recurrent in her 30-years career – Americana, Androgyny, Fairy Tale, Victorian, Grunge, Nomad, Mod, Punk, Rockstar & Hippie, Retro, Schoolgirl and Surfer.

Anna Sui Group

Curator Dennis Nothdruft organised Anna’s looks thematically rather than chronologically. Which draws the visitors’ attention to the threads running through each individual outfit, and the thread running through the exhibition – Printed textiles, layering, power pattern clashes and colours.

Ann Sui Red Dress

Anna Sui Cosmetics

Anna Sui Shoes

 

There are more than 125 full looks, select cosmetics, collaborative projects, mood boards, photographs and cultural ephemera on display. I found her first career retrospective a wonderful insight into her world, extremely enjoyable and fun.

 

Fashion and Textile Museum
83 Bermondsey St, London, SE1 3XF

26 May 17 – 01 Oct 17, Closed Mondays, Late opening Thursday (8pm)

£6 – £9.90

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