Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2019

Creative Director Bertrand Guyon’s collection explored the founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s obsession with astrological signs and flowers. Her lesser-known work in the Fifties was the inspiration for the collection. Schiaparelli’s uncle compared the beauty marks on her cheek to the stars forming the constellation Ursa Major, when she was a little girl.

Guyon said backstage “It’s a very current collection which is almost futuristic, even, because I wanted to work on totally different colour combinations inspired by the porcelain of Sèvres, Chantilly and Meissen for the floral section. It’s also very humorous and optimistic”.

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Maison Schiaparelli

Maison Margiela Haute Couture Spring Summer 2019

Maison Margiela – Haute Couture – SS19

Designer John Galliano’s Maison Margiela Artisanal Collection statement said ‘Decadence is a cyclical circumstance moving with the turns of the centuries,’ a further explanatory statement read ‘Revolution: a desire for change. Maison Margiela renders the decadence of our time and examines if inverted excess could lead to a new appetite for restraint.’

The set had colourful graffiti on the ceiling and a mirrored floor. The graffiti was also mirrored in the patterned clothes coming down the runway.

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Maison Margiela – US

Maison Margiela – Italy

Maison Margiela – France

 

Haute Couture – Paris – Fall Winter 2018/19

Givenchy

The haute couture show paid homage to Mr Hubert of Givenchy, capturing his minimalist, graphic cuts and timeless elegance. There were pleated dresses, some cinched in at the waist with metal accessories or a metal belt, also shown were pleated dresses and some capes. Standout pieces were an entirely sequined dress, a black velvet dress, an open tail coat over trousers and a satin blouse. An emotional show with the inclusion of the voice of Givenchy’s muse Audrey Hepburn singing “Moon River”.

Christian Dior

Modern elegance and a sleek silhouette, there were dresses with winged sleeves, ribbed shoulders and distinct waists. The bustier dress with organza flowers and the tulle gowns were well fitted to the body. Also of note, were voluminous coats with bat sleeves and the pleat work on the back of the vests and sleeves.

Schiaparelli

There was an animal theme for this collection. Zebra, leopard and spotted prints re- interpreted in a modern way. There were fun hats and masks by Stephen Jones, in the form of a pink flamingo and a rabbit. Outfits of note, the appearance of Schiaparelli’s face on tunic dresses, a black velvet perforated dress and an asymmetrical sheath with a falling panel.

Maison Margiela

Outfits were voluminous and layered. The colour palette was a mix of electric pastel tones in lavender, tangerine, pistachio, mint, coral red, contrasted with black, white, gray, beige, military green and felt.  Some of the materials used were industrial padding, tapestry, felt, tights’ nylon, tweed, satin and tulle.

Sonia Rykiel

It was Sonia Rykiel’s 50th year since the launch of her label, and this was the first couture collection. Models came out strong, shirtless and braless under tuxedo jackets. Signature velour joggings were reimagined in embroidered tulle and paired up with a feathery jumper.

Chanel

There were 67 looks presented, tweed came out in soft steely colours. The classic Chanel jackets were elongated with sleeve that had elbow-length slits and ankle length skirts. Looks were also uplifted with fingerless gloves. Evening and cocktail dresses had embellished hems made from beads feathers, jewels and metallic glint.

Fendi

The shapes consisted of loose dresses, pencil skirt with small boxy jackets,  lightweight and flimsy evening gowns came with layers of tulle and fringed organza. vibrant colours with alternate hues of apricot, beige, pink, lavender and touches of black.

Giorgio Armani Privé

The collection was very elegant and consisted of 95 looks. There were fitted suits, sheath dresses, fantastically luxurious materials, shiny embroideries and feathers. The standout was the lamé suit trousers, pleated lace skirts and diamond prints.

Viktor & Rolf

25 creations were presented to celebrate their 25 years of design. All in white tones and Swarovski crystal enhanced. There were blouses with multiple bows with a Pierrot collar forming a flower with many petals and the “duvet” dress. Standout were crystals that formed words.

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The Fashion Visitor

 

Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2018

Featured photo above by Arthur Humeau on Unsplash

 

Maison Margiela

The collected fashion press were encouraged to use flash photography, for the first half of the Maison Margiela show. The dresses, coats and bustiers on the catwalk then transformed from plain black into brilliant technicolour. Galliano also used fabrics not commonly associated with couture. This resulted in sportswear playing a key role, with ski jackets being repurposed into black-tie gowns and bungee cords used as a neck tie to fasten raw silk dresses.

Chanel

Lily-Rose Depp opened the Chanel show in a multi-layered pink dress. The whole collection was magnificent with pastel colours, feathers and just the right amount of sparkle.

Christian Dior

A total of 72 looks came down the runway, mainly in black-and-white. The emphasis was on craftsmanship rather than colour. Highlights were the jacquard evening dress in with gold embroidery, the ivory stain coat with domino design, the black triple organza long dress featuring hand-painted zodiac motifs and the closing look of full-length black cape worn over a black tuxedo paired with a black tulle shirt and tie.

Valentino

So many fantastic looks at Valentino show, from feathered coats, floor sweeping capes, embellished corset dresses, some paired with wonderful colour combinations.

Elie Saab

The show had a modern-day, 1920s Art Deco influence to it. There were bold geometric prints, which were amplified with heavily encrusted embellishment and lavish adornments. Fabrics used were silk, satin, tulle, and lace in pastel shades. The silhouette was further enhanced by feathers, shoulders were accentuated and necklines plunged.

Ralph & Russo

A very beautiful and cutting-edge collection came down the runway. From capes, velvet thigh-high slit, sequined dresses. The colours palette included scarlet red, mustard yellow and pink.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Gaultier took us back the 60s era in a Pierre Cardin inspired show. There were bold black and white looks with graphic avant-garde designs. On show were circular black and a white striped dress in silk crepe and a bi-coloured gown bubble dress in crepe that was cut into strips on the skirt. In all, 51 individual looks in the collection came down the runway.

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