Photo of the Week

Anna Sui Purple Dress

Purple floral dress, Anna Sui Exhibition, The Fashion & Textile Museum (2017, Previously unpublished)

 

Graduate Fashion Week – 2018

Graduate Fashion Week (GFW) 2018, was every bit exciting, rebellious and innovative. Packed with lots of personality and attitude, there were over 36 leading universities showing their collections and the creativity on show was immense.

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The shows displayed a mixture of fun brightly coloured neon garments, for both men and women in yellow, pink and blue. Outerwear, bags and shoes used PVC and vinyl materials. Also shown were many stripes, geometric designs and transparent materials in classic and contemporary styles.

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GFW is such an important showcase for students and the fashion industry. Its where upcoming talent can get scouted by experts. It’s also a vital opportunity to push forward fresh talent into the industry.

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The four days of showing collections ended with a Gala Award show.

Some of the winners were:

Christopher Bailey Gold Award
Winner: Rebecca Wilson, Arts University Bournemouth
Runner up: Aurélie Fontan, Edinburgh College of Art

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Rebecca received £10,000 for herself and her university received £2,000.

M&S Womenswear Award
Winner: Aurélie Fontan, Edinburgh College of Art
Runner up: Chantelle Guan, Ravenbourne

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Debenhams Menswear Award
Winner: Hannah Gibbons, University of Brighton
Runner Up: Enki Allan, Kingston University

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Visionary Knitwear Award
Joint Winner: Fraser Miller, De Montfort University
Jacaranda Brain, Nottingham Trent University
Runner up: Penny Gibbs, Northumbria University

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George Catwalk to Store
Winner: Louise Clark, Manchester School of Art

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Swarovski International Fashion Award
Winner: Danqi Chen, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology
Runner up: Bao Wen Chen, Shih Chien University

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Tu Scholarship Womenswear
Winner: Jennifer Healy, Manchester School of Art

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Boux Avenue Lingerie Award
Winner: Daniella Jayes, De Montfort University
Runner up: Amelia Wilson, Northumbria University

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Considered Design Showcase Sponsored by Johnstons of Elgin
Winner: Saskia Lenaerts, Kingston University
Runner up: Aurelie Fontan, Edinburgh College of Art

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Judges 2018:

Christopher Bailey Gold Award

Diane Von Furstenberg, Founder / Designer, Diane Von Furstenberg
Christopher Raeburn, Creative Director, Christopher RÆBURN
Fabio Piras, MA Fashion Course Director, Central Saint Martins
Kevin Carrigan, Senior Vice President and Creative Director, Ralph Lauren
Gillian Wilkins, Fashion Director, Elle
Gena Smith, SVP, Head of Global Creative Recruitment, LVMH
Mandi Lennard, Fashion PR and Founder, Mandi’s Basement
Nathan Jenden, Chief Design Officer& VP Creative at DVF
Duvo Olowu, Senior Fashion Director at LOVE Magazine
Tim Blanks, Editor-At-Large, Business of Fashion

Catwalk Textiles Award

Polly Lennard, Founder and Textiles Expert, Selvedge Magazine
Lizzy Bowring, Catwalks Director, WGSN
Nigel Luck, Director of MA, Fashion Design and Technology, London College of Fashion

Debenhams Menswear Award

Steven Cook, Head of Fashion & Home, Debenhams
Alistair Waite, Senior Menswear Designer, Debenhams
Jim Chapman, Blogger, Jim Chapman
Sam Carder, Fashion Editor, Shortlist

George Catwalk To Store Award

Mary-Kate Campbell, Senior Buying Director, George
Tracey Lea Sawyer, Fashion Director, Fabulous
Zahra Rose, Influencer, Zahra Rose

 

More great images from Graduate Fashion Week 2018

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All images courtesy of Task PR

 

 

 

 

 

 

T Shirt: Cult – Culture – Subversion – Exhibition Review – London

The Exhibition looks at the significance of the T-shirt and charts the journey of the T-shirt through the 2oth Century. It explores its various roles: as a symbol of rebellion, as an undergarment underneath formal shirts, and of course, as a carrier of slogans. There are examples from environmental organisations, punk-era slogans and good old propaganda.

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Westwood God Save Shirt

I particularly enjoyed seeing Vivienne Westwood’s and Malcolm Maclaren’s private collection. From the early days of the Let it Rock, Sex, and Seditionaries era, her famous classic piece like the ‘God Save the Queen’ Sex Pistols T-shirt, to the more political shirts emblazoned with slogans like ‘Climate Revolution’, worn on the catwalk by Westwood. The exhibition is predominately about political statements, which have over the years been printed on cotton, including today. Also fascinating to see was the Biba shirt, the Choose Life shirt and the Live Aid shirt.

Westwood Shirt

Westwood Let It Rock

 

Featuring more than 100 cotton T-shirts and covering a period of 70 years, it works its way through 12 thematic categories, which focus on topics such as protest, concert culture, ecology, and printing techniques, it traces the history of the popularisation of the T-shirt in the 20th and early 21st centuries.

Choose Life Shirt

T-Shirt Line Up 3

The exhibition ends on May 6th 2018, but well worth a visit if you can make it.

T-Shirt: Cult – Culture – Subversion is at Fashion and Textile Museum, 83 Bermondsey Street, SE1 3XF.

Open – Tuesdays to Saturdays, 11am–6pm
Thursdays until 8pm
Sundays, 11am–5pm
Last admission 45 minutes before closing
Closed Mondays

Tickets – Advance booking online is recommended but tickets may be purchased in person on the day of the visit, subject to availability
£9.90 adults* / £8.80 concessions* / £7 students *Includes 10% gift aid
Children under 12 are free.

Tel: 020 7407 8664

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My Generation Exhibition – London

I visited the My Generation exhibition on Carnaby Street – London. It was an exclusive exhibition in celebration of the film My Generation, which is presented and produced by Michael Caine. The film is told through the eyes of Caine who helped shape this remarkable era, viewers are taken on a vivid and inspirational journey through London in the 60s.

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Sasson and Quant

It was absolutely delighted to be up close to some of the most iconic photographs taken in the 60s. Showcased were photographs, prints and previously unseen archive footage. Featured were Twiggy, Roger Daltrey and The Who, Marianne Faithfull, Vidal Sassoon, Jean Shrimpton, Lulu, Paul McCartney and The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, David Bailey, Sandie Shaw and Mary Quant alongside Michael Caine. Taken by photographers which include Terry O’Neill, Duffy and Barry Lategan. The stand out pieces included the infamous portrait of Christine Keeler, taken by Lewis Morley, mass crowd photographs highlighting the peak of Beatlemania as well as the first professional photo taken of Twiggy.

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Christine Keeler Chair

Twiggy

Unfortunately I was not around in the 60s to enjoy it first hand, but seeing the exhibition was really exciting and enjoyable.

Today the Carnaby area is home to global fashion brands that sit alongside independent stores and concept shops. It has a thriving food scene and is also home to live music venues and bars. It is a place to find experiential retail and many creative industries that give a nod to the spirit of the 60s generation.

 

 

 

 

 

THE WORLD OF ANNA SUI EXHIBITION 2017

Anna Sui Picture

I became aware or the fashion designer Anna Sui back in 2004, when I worked for a fragrance company. Since then I have been a big fan of her work, and to see an exhibition by her was an absolute delight. On at the Fashion and Textile Museum in Bermondsey, London. Her collection of clothes grabs you from the moment you walk in, with four separate outfits on display in the reception area. Which were all wonderfully detailed in their construction.

Anna Sui Victorian

Anna’s story begins in Detroit, she decided she wanted to become a fashion designer at the age of four. Growing up she would watch her mother for hours sewing, and would collect the fabric scraps to clothe her Barbie dolls and her brothers’ army action figures. Through this process, Sui learned the basics of making clothing and would soon put together her own outfits. She would read articles from Life Magazine, particularly about Mia Fonssagrives-Solow who graduated from Parsons The New School for Design in New York City and then moved to Paris. Anna credits this article as being the pivotal moment in her youth, which gave her clear direction on her future goals. She eventually  moved to New York and attended Parsons. She has redefined American fashion since her first runway show in 1991 and her pivotal grunge collection in 1993. Now she has more than 300 Anna Sui stores in 35 countries.

Anna Sui Grunge

She has an encyclopaedic knowledge of fashion history and this exhibition shows her dedication to the creative process. Some of her inspirations for her work are on display from magazines, rock-n-roll posters and clothing eras that have influenced her.

Anna Sui Purple Dress

In the main space all the mannequins are elevated on red podiums. The clothing’s strong  themes (‘archetypes’), are grouped in to nine themes, which have been recurrent in her 30-years career – Americana, Androgyny, Fairy Tale, Victorian, Grunge, Nomad, Mod, Punk, Rockstar & Hippie, Retro, Schoolgirl and Surfer.

Anna Sui Group

Curator Dennis Nothdruft organised Anna’s looks thematically rather than chronologically. Which draws the visitors’ attention to the threads running through each individual outfit, and the thread running through the exhibition – Printed textiles, layering, power pattern clashes and colours.

Ann Sui Red Dress

Anna Sui Cosmetics

Anna Sui Shoes

 

There are more than 125 full looks, select cosmetics, collaborative projects, mood boards, photographs and cultural ephemera on display. I found her first career retrospective a wonderful insight into her world, extremely enjoyable and fun.

 

Fashion and Textile Museum
83 Bermondsey St, London, SE1 3XF

26 May 17 – 01 Oct 17, Closed Mondays, Late opening Thursday (8pm)

£6 – £9.90

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