Men’s Fashion Week – Paris – Spring/Summer 2019

Here are the highlights of the Paris Men’s Fashion Week for Spring Summer 2019. With debuts from designers Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton and Kim Jones at Dior.

Louis Vuitton

Virgil Abloh’s first show for Louis Vuitton had a rainbow colour palette and catwalk. The first half of the show started with all white. We saw a double-breasted suit jackets in mohair, worn with two-pleat trousers, also on show was a white crocodile leather trench coat. The standouts were Wizard of Oz, Dorothy printed decorated jackets.

Maison Margiela

Maison Margiela were presenting it’s first full men’s Artisanal collection, the house reassessed the future of dressmaking in menswear. The colour palette for the show was white, off-white and black, along with turquoise, pink and red. Some materials used in the show were organza, chiffon, silk, tweeds along with bold materials like rubber, plastic and patent leather. John Galliano used the bias-cut to transform traditional tailoring into hyper-modern suits.

Issey Miyake Men

The collection showed the blurred lined between work and play. There were less voluminous shirts on show with more bolder patterns. A three piece zig-zag jacquard suit and multi-coloured knitted outerwear.

Rick Owens

Named ‘Tower of Babel’ the show was staged in the courtyard of Palais de Tokyo. Some of the T-shirts had integrated scaffolding and contrasted with  the more relaxed style of skirts and cut-offs in denim. At the end of the show, ponchos came with pole to be self assembled.

Dior Homme

Kim Jones debuted as the new artistic director for Dior. At the show there were tailored pastel suits, also neon yellow. Floral prints, CD belt buckles, light cashmere and mohair suits and repeat logo lace vests were paired with pinstriped trousers and monogramed high-top trainers.

Alexander McQueen

There was sharp tailoring and embroidery, trench coats came in vibrant colours. Some in traditional camel colour were split in half in a cape style hybrid with a black overcoat, waistcoats were also a key trend.

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Thanks,

The Fashion Visitor

Men’s Fashion Week – Milan – Spring/Summer 2019

Here are some of the key collections from the Milan menswear shows for spring/summer 2019.

Prada

Shorts were the main highlight from the Prada show. They were paired with and zipped necked tops and blazers in colours that clashed. Over-the-shoulder handbags were carried by the models who walked with confident purpose.

Neil Barrett

Yellow, brown and florals featured on lightweight trenches and sleek Hawaiian shirts. Also shown were leather short sleeve shirts. Shorts came as separates or as part of a matching floral two piece.

Marni

Familiar sports looks came out with models wearing loose fitting shirts and shorts. Many outfits mismatched with baseball sweaters and golf socks. A very casual relaxed show that was dubbed the ‘Marni Olympics’.

Fendi

The show took references from the 90s, especially with bucket hats with anorak and bomber style jackets. The predominate colours were black, brown and red. The FF Logo was printed more chunkier on shirts, trousers and jackets. a very cool luxe collection with a dark edge.

Versace

There was the return for the power suit but with a fresh reworked feel, placed over denim trousers and T-shirts with Versace printed headlines. Floral prints were mixed with wide legged jeans and mixed with neon’s. The collection was also shown along with a contemporary women’s collection.

Ermenegildo Zegna

The show was staged in an absolutely stunning location, outside the Palazzo Mondadori building, with a mirrored catwalk. The colours for the collection were pinks, yellows, blues and earth tones. There were tailored, jackets, bombers, parkas and florals.

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Thanks,

The Fashion Visitor

 

Paris F/W Men’s Autumn/Winter 2018-19

Hermes

Models came out and walked through the courtyard of a former monastery, flanked by burning beacons. Stand out fabrics were knitwear and lightweight quilted outerwear.  The styling was subtle, made up of layers letting dashes of bright colour stand out against an earthy toned collection palette.

Lemaire

The collection was elegant and restrained and opened with a brown pilled wool belted coat, over white trousers and brown leather boots. Colours came in bubblegum pink turtlenecks and a red jumper, which stood out against the browns and caramels.

Lanvin

Strong tailoring was present at the Lanvin show this season in the form suits and reworked anoraks. Lucas Ossendrivjer made the point that the suit is modern camouflage, worn to blend in. Performance parkas appeared in traditional tailoring fabrics. Ossendrivjer also paired the suits with forest prints, made from his own photographs.

Dries Van Noton

The show was inspired by the marbled endpapers in old books. The nylon patterned windcheaters that made up the final line-up was visually stunning. The trousers worn were tartan and check and made central with several suits, as well as English embroidery at the base of trousers.

Rick Owens

The collection featured long tunics in double thread wool and cashmere, which were distorted or reattached with chains worn on loose denim Bermuda short. Of note, were the coats and capes with metallic studs on the collar, also with great effects in different materials on the back + The trainers and new to Owens collection, big soled boots in plastic.

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Milan F/W Men’s Autumn/Winter 2018-19

Giorgio Armani

Tailoring was key at Armani’s show from blazers and workwear suits to shawl collar eveningwear in velvet, there were a total of 93 different looks in the whole collection. Bomber jackets and cuffed trousers, gave a more relaxed style, some of which were in velvet and faux fur coats.

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Men’s New York Fashion Week 2017

In its fifth season now, more than 50 brands showed their Spring 2018 collections. Unlike Milan and Paris, New York fashion week has become known for its eclectic mix and emphasis of brands from all over the world.

Established names showing again this year were Todd Snyder, Robert Geller and Raf Simons. But the must see’s were Willy Chavarria, Dyne, Jahnhoy, Raun Larose, You As, Death to Tennis and Grungy Gentleman. The up-and-coming brands were Krammer & Stoudt, David Hart, Bristol, Daniel Hechter, Wood House and Head of State. New to Men’s New York Fashion Week were Teddy Ondo Ella, Sanchez Kane and CH24 Los Angeles.

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